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Ah on the batteries ?

Do you know of a video that shows how to change the transformer on the flotron? and possible compatible replacement, the flotron site dont offer them.

Great video thanks

Finally a light

We should get rid of the LED and fluorescent and get back to reality switch back to incandescent 3:09

Interestingly, the VHO T12 and GE Powergroove fluorescent tubes also have a similar operating current to the 175W H39 mercury vapor lamps as well. I once tried using a 175W H39 mercury vapor CWA ballast as a preheat ballast for a 6 foot VHO T12 fluorescent tube and the tube somehow rectified during operation.

Could you try it with a hps bulb?

Nice stock! You should probably do the same with fluorescent in about 4 years as that isbeing effectively banned from being produced or imported after July 25th, 2028.

Useless

I have a bunch of Philips 56W 130V vacuum A21 street railway lamps that I bought at a surplus store. They are '90s vintage. They are very nice bulbs to use for general lighting as the lamp envelope stays cool due to the vacuum design and they last a long time. One feature of vacuum lamps is that they luminate (brighten) and nigresce (darken) more slowly than gas-filled lamps. I had them in a Victorian era chandelier and when you turned them on they would light up noticeably more slowly and extringuish slowly too.

Thanks for the date code info. I like old stuff and am always trying to decipher the various date codes. I finally figured out GE's 2-digit miniature lamp date codes on the various types of bulbs found in my '70's and 80's cars...what a revelation that was (to me anyway). Still trying to figure out the wacky dots-and-digit date codes on the Tung-Sol miniature lamps. Cool bulbs by the way.

Those are some weird wattage ratings there! 36W, 101W? I've seen old light bulbs burn out like an old flash-bulb. A huge bright light and then total darkness. May I ask why that type of lamp failure is bad for railway use?

What do you hate about led

Do you think the MOV for input surge protection on this single port charger would be the same as one on a 6 port Ryobi charger?

No non-electric lighting, get some Coleman lanterns running, those things use a lot of energy in the form of fuel. Efficacy of those is about 1 lumen per watt.

Nice variety of lights. As usual much more of a wattage total.

Very cool weird thing! I'd never seen those before.

Can you tell if the transformer is an induction transformer (primary and secondary windings are isolated)? OR Is it an autotransformer?

nice! I have been acquiring a stash of Arlen EFS electronic starters before they all vanish against the LED onslaught, I have got a few EFS120's and some EFS600's but the elusive EFS600UVX escapes me, I tried to order a couple that where showing as in stock from a specialist lighting wholesaler, but I sadly got messed about with incorrect substitutes, which is quite frustrating as I do have some US and European VHO tubes in my collection which I wish to start as gently as possible I am especially curious to know what sort of triac the EFS600UVX uses, the TN22 is only rated for 2A max, but im pretty sure the short circuit current of a 1.5A sun-bed choke may well exceed that... as an aside note on regular ol EFS600, I noticed there seems to be 2 distinct types, older sorts that are rated "30W-125W" and newer sorts rated "4W-125W" and what I noticed is the 30-125W always starts the tubes nice and cleanly, a solid preheat follow by a clean strike just like in your video but the more modern EFS600 4-125W sorts, seem to not strike the tube as cleanly, they preheat the tube for a few seconds, then while still preheating the tube, they also try to the strike the tube, so for about a second or so its stuck in this in between state with the ballast buzzing loudly as the triac pulse, before it finally allows the tube to strike I never liked how they do that, so I always look for the older 30W-125W ones, but I do wonder what the difference is between the 2 sorts to cause this differing behaviour?

Belarus? BY😂

Are ECCO Inverters any good?

What type of lightbulb or lighting did you use to film this video?

LOL, I wonder how that mistake got through! 🤦‍♂️

I’ve heard of those before. I believe I’ve seen a picture of a Sylvania one. Definitely a unique feature, but I don’t like how they implemented it. Even if you just wanted to turn the nightlight on, you have to turn on the CFL on first, which would encourage unnecessary starting of the CFL, wearing it down. Not sure if there would be a better way to implement the nightlight though. Are the LEDs daylight or warm white? I believe the Sylvania one I saw had daylight LEDs.

Saitama is not a ward of Tokyo. It is one of the 27 prefectures of Japan. The plant is in Gyoda City.

You're an idiot. They could make port 1 for pass through charging. Press a button and that's the only port to charge, while all the others are also active to discharge current. Battery 1 to depletion, go to battery 2 while 1 charges. When 2 deplets back to 1. When 1 is empty on to 3. When 3 is empty back to 1. When 1 is empty on to 4. When 4 is empty back to 1.... Depress the button, and you go to default how it is today. But what do I know, I wasn't home-schooled.

Was the battery algorithm fixed ?

Thanks, i just got one of these, haven't opened it yet.

You never know what kind of treasure lurks within the Jameco bag of mystery!

I was about to buy a 15k Sol ark, now that's on hold. This video is more than an eye opener as to far reaching ramifications. This uncovers a huge hole in anyone's plans for prepping. What inverters are able to run with ever being tied to the internet

Can u please get to it

Anyone know the size ot the torx key for the p118

You live in a place is probably cold year round

America runs on paranoia you could make a fortune selling those.

NO SOLAR Charging Capability SAD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Is like kinder surprise 😂

nice video master............ but please i can i use sg2535 for this

How did you get it for $8 each?

Started in the trade in '94. Installed a bunch of these. HID's are going the way of fuse boxes.

Very cool. I am an HID lighting enthusiast but had never encountered a configuration like this. Thanks for sharing!

Precharge Inverter: Breaker off/bypass between inverter and battery, Inverter turned on, Turn on Battery switch, Precharge Inverter complete?

try hot restriking one of those Dual arc tube venture MH lamps, they dont actually instant restrike, because the lit arc tube heats up the unlit arc tube too much, as. I understand it these are primarily designed for increased life, in that obviously every time you turn one one, a random arc tube will light, and I also imagine as one arc tube begins to age its striking voltage will rise such the more healthy arc tube will then strike first, and so forth, although obviously as you say if you burn one 24/7 without power cycling it then yeah one arc tube might explode before the other has a chance to do anything LOL, but in say a normal 12 hour on 12 hour off cycle I imagine there will be enough switching cycles to even out arc tube wear

I take offence to the statement garbage leds. Yes, the product was well designed, but also ĺed's can be. Poorly made,/cheaply, and designed led lighting product's coming from mainly one country in Asia have given them a bad name. One main fault in òut side high power lighting is that damp gets into the pcb, or to thin a barrier, shorts out the led heat sink to the aluminium heat disapation plane, also poor power supply/driving circuits, ovrdriving the led's and specifying the incorrect colour e.g. warm/cool or day light 3000/4000/6000, in most cases 6000 is best for outside and worknplace conditions. Also, as a rule of thumb, they save 90% energy used most of the power used in previous lighting is producing heat. If everyone in the world changed to led lighting power consumption, could be reduced, by 80 to 90%. I changed my lighting at home from nearly 2000 watts to 176 Watts if all lights were turned on. Thanks fir the video.

I also have very few problems with running Japanese 100V 50Hz HX autotransformer ballasted fixtures and Japanese 100V 50Hz series choke ballasted fixtures here on 120V 60Hz supplies here in the USA except that I see the ballasts drawing a line current of roughly 15% above what they are rated for and experienced no ballast failures from regular use. This was from my experience with running some Japanese 100V 50Hz 32W preheat circline fluorescent pendant light fixtures regularly on 120V 60Hz supplies.

nice fixture and lamp :) I seem to recall those split coil GE ballasts could be reconfigured for either 120V or 240V, by changing the jumpers and how the coils are wired, but I could be wrong there, but I seem to recall thats why they had the split coils (in the same way a 115V/230V switch on a lot old PC PSU's worked by configuring the 2 capacitors into a voltage doubler) another thing is in your description, you have it a bit backwards, H34 lamps are rated for no Less than 50F (10C), and are *explicitly* not rated for cold temperature use, some manufacturers even rate them for indoor use only, H36 lamps have no such limitations and since I am at it just for completeness sake H36 lamps run at 4A-4.2A 265V, this is also comparable to the British high voltage Mercury lamp specifications (which was the first spec of 1Kw merc in the UK, but the later introduced low voltage spec was always much more common, although its worth noting in the UK we had 2 specfications of high voltage lamp 265V 4A and 300V 3.3A depending on what your between phase voltage was exactly) H34 lamps run at 130V 8A, this makes them more or less compatible with the British/European low voltage specification of mercury lamp, and I actually have in my collection an *E40* Capped Westinghouse H34 1000W *orthophosphate* lamp that I found here in the UK, and looks quite weird seeing such a European style cap on such an American looking lamp :)

An interesting note about 1000W H36 mercury vapor ballasts is that they often have roughly the same OCV as 1000W M47 probe start metal halide ballasts as well. This means that you might be able to reliably run 1000W M47 probe start metal halide lamps on many 1000W H36 mercury vapor ballasts very reliably without any modifications to the ballast whatsoever. In GE’s catalog, they specify that regular 1000W M47 probe start metal halide lamps can reliably operate on 1000W H36 mercury vapor HX autotransformer ballasts and 1000W H36 mercury vapor series choke ballasts provided that they have a minimum OCV of at least 440V and they should start reliably on those ballasts provided that the temperature is above 0 degrees fahrenheit.

Hey mine just failed. I don't have any voltage on the secondary side of the BCK2801 transformer. Is the transformer at fault or could a component connected to it be the cause? Thanks

I had a bunch of 56W Philips Street Railway vacuum lamps in service in a chandelier for over a decade and they had darkened a lot. But I love how vacuum lamps ramp up (luminesce) and darken (nigresce) slowly.

Those are some very weird/unusual wattages for those light bulbs. I have *never* seen 33W or 405W. What were those intended to be used for?

Actually, there is another legitimate use case for them: using British/European/Australian high-powered small appliances (mostly for kitchen and power tools) in North America. Normally, a 240V source for medium loads is supplied by a NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 receptacle. However, there are no travel adaptors with a NEMA 6-15 or 6-20 plug and a universal receptacle output. With the Hydrofarm BAOX receptacle, one can use a 3kW British/European/Australian hot water kettle in North America at full power for practically instant heating of water, by simply first plugging in a NEMA 5-15 to universal travel adapter that is rated 13 A or higher. IMPORTANT: Just put a label stating "240 V" on the exterior so one doesn't accidentally plug a 120 V appliance into it.